A Complete Guide to Hiking the West Highland Way in October
Imagine walking through a landscape with mountains peeking through the mist and dramatic fall colors surrounding you everywhere you look. This is reality when hiking the West Highland Way in October!
The West Highland Way is a multi-day hiking trail that winds through the Scottish Highlands, showcasing rugged mountains, cascading waterfalls, the beauty of the Loch Lomond shoreline, big views in the Glencoe region, and the iconic Devil’s Staircase climb, along with local charm in the towns along the way.
Whether you’re dreaming of hiking the West Highland Way one day or you’re actively planning your route, I put together a full behind-the-scenes guide to how I thru-hiked 100 miles across the Scottish Highlands in October—plus all the planning tips, logistics, and trail insights I wish I had when I was prepping.
What’s Covered in This Guide to Hiking the West Highland Way
This post includes a full trail breakdown, hotel vs. camping insights, weather considerations, my exact itinerary and packing list, podcast episode recaps, and what I’d do differently if I hiked it again.
Here’s how this post is laid out, so you can jump ahead to any of these sections if you’re looking for specific info.
West Highland Way Trail Stats - All the basic details for the trail in one spot. How many miles, start & end locations, & more.
When to Hike the West Highland Way - Why I picked October (and what to know about timing)
Where to Stay Along the West Highland Way - Wild camping vs hotels: what we chose & why
West Highland Way Logistics & Booking Timeline – When to book your flights, lodging, return train, and dinner reservations
Itinerary for Hiking Hiking the West Highland Way - Quick overview of the how we broke up our days, including map of the route
Packing List for the West Highland Way - What I brought for the hike (and what I wouldn’t bring again)
West Highland Way Trail Recap – A more detailed look at each hiking day—plus links to my daily podcast trail diaries
What I’m Glad I Did/What I’d Do Differently – Breaking down what went well & how things could have gone better
West Highland Way FAQs – Answers to the questions I get asked most about doing this trail
Let’s dive in!
Hiking the West Highland Way Trail Stats
For an idea of what to expect on this hike, here’s an overview of the key stats for the West Highland Way trail:
Trail Name: West Highland Way
Distance: ~96 miles / 154 km
Time on Trail: 5-10 days (I did mine in 8 days)
Start Point: Milngavie, Scotland (pronounced mul-guy)
End Point: Fort William, Scotland
Daily Mileage: Depends on your itinerary, but for my 8 day itinerary it was between 7 and 15 miles/day
Direction Hiked: South to North
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When to Hike the West Highland Way
You can hike the West Highland Way year-round, but the experience is different depending on the season you choose.
SPRING (March-May)
Spring can be a lovely season to hike the West Highland Way. Temps are cool, crowds are thinner, and the wildflowers start to bloom. However, be prepared for rain, cold nights, and possibly still some snow on the trail.
SUMMER (June-August)
Summer brings the crowds—and the midges!—to the West Highland Way. The days are long, the weather is warm, and the trail is bustling with people. All the hotels and restaurants are open, but since this is peak season, you’ll want to make your reservations well in advance. And be sure to bring bug repellent (and maybe bug nets) for the midges!
FALL (September-October)
Fall is a fantastic time to hike the West Highland Way, featuring glorious autumnal foliage, magical mist on the hills, and far fewer people (and fewer midges). Expect lots of rain and plenty of wind, so water & windproof gear is must this time of year.
>>>Check out my essential tips for backpacking in the rain here!
WINTER (November-February)
While you can hike the West Highland Way in the winter, it is definitely the off-season. The days are short and dark, the trail can be snowy and icy, and most of the hotels and restaurants along the way are closed. But if you’re self-sufficient and experienced in winter hiking, you can enjoy the stark beauty and solitude that winter brings.
Why I Picked October
October in the Highlands felt moody in the best way—fall colors, fewer crowds, and a bit of trail magic in the mist.
But here are a few things to keep in mind:
Weather: Expect rain and wind, and pack accordingly.
Crowds: Quieter than summer. We still saw hikers, but nothing felt packed with people.
Midges: Mostly gone by this time of year—huge bonus!
Fall Colors: Gorgeous! Golds, oranges, and moody green hills.
Also be aware that some restaurants were starting to close for the season and certain accommodations book out fast in the fall, so plan ahead.
Where to Stay Along the West Highland Way
When you hike the West Highland Way, camping isn’t your only option. You can also choose to stay at hotels along the trail, which is definitely a different experience than typical backpacking trails in the US.
Wild Camping vs Hotels: What We Chose & Why
We opted for hotels, Airbnbs, and hiking pods each night—and it was 100% the right call for an October hike.
Here’s why:
Weather: Rain, wind, and chillier temps were common. Having a warm, dry place to sleep made a huge difference.
Daylight: Shorter fall days meant we were rolling into towns around 4 or 5 PM—perfect timing for check-in and dinner.
Gear Simplicity: Without needing a full camping setup, we packed lighter.
Comfort: After muddy, wet days, nothing beats a real bed, warm shower, and local food.
Would I wild camp this trail in summer? Totally. But I loved hiking it in the moodi-ness of fall/October and I wouldn’t change a thing.
West Highland Way Logistics & Booking Timeline
Hiking the West Highland Way requires a fair amount of logistics and advanced planning. You have to book international flights (if you’re coming from the US), hotels & lodging along the trail, a return train ticket from the end of the trail back to where you started, and dinner reservations along the route.
Here’s the rough order I recommend for booking:
Flights into Glasgow (start point) and out of either Glasgow or Edinburgh
Lodging along the trail (hotels, B&Bs, pods, etc.)
Return train from Fort William to Glasgow or Edinburgh (book early!)
Dinner reservations in popular spots (Tyndrum, Kinlochleven, Fort William)
Booking Timeline Suggestion: - 6 months out: Start researching and lock in flights - 4–5 months out: Reserve all accommodations - 2–3 months out: Book trains and restaurant reservations
Itinerary for Hiking the West Highland Way
Most people hike the West Highland Way in between 5-10 days, and I chose to do it in 8 days. Here is how I split up my hike (including approximate mileage).
Day 0: Arrive in Milngavie (stay overnight)
Day 1 (~12 miles): Milngavie to Drymen
Day 2 (~15 miles): Drymen to Rowardennan
Day 3 (~13 miles): Rowardennan to Beinglas Farm
Day 4 (~12 miles): Beinglas Farm to Tyndrum
Day 5 (~7 miles): Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy
Day 6 (~12 miles): Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse Hotel
Day 7 (~9 miles): Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
Day 8 (~15 miles): Kinlochleven to Fort William (depart next day)
This is a map of the route and the stops I made along the way. If you want more specifics about my itinerary, I go deeper into detail about each day in the trail recap section below.
West Highland Way Trail Recap
Here’s a more detailed look at each of my hiking day’s along the West Highland Way—plus links to my daily podcast trail diaries if you want to hear the raw, real-time reflections straight from the trail.
Day 0: The Night Before 100 Miles and a Looming Storm
We landed in Glasgow and made our way to Milngavie, the official start of the West Highland Way. Reuniting with Ashima was such a joy, and we kicked things off with a cozy pub dinner, big laughs, and a storm in the forecast that had us both a little on edge. The trail hadn’t even started yet, and the adventure vibes were already strong.
Day 1: Tilly Tea Time, Stormy Miles & Cozy Drymen Nights
Our first real day of hiking brought sideways rain, bright pink sunrises, and a hilarious trail dog named Tilly who tried to share our lunch break. The miles were wet but joyful—full of giggles and sticky toffee dreams. We landed in Drymen soaked but happy, and ended the day in a cozy room drying our gear and marveling that we were really doing this.
Day 2: Conic Hill, Big Winds & Luxury Hot Chocolate
We climbed our first real challenge of the trip—Conic Hill. The views were worth it, but the winds nearly blew us sideways. This was the day the weight of our packs really started to hit. We were tired, sore, and emotional by the time we reached Rowardennan… but we rallied with luxury hot chocolate that quite literally saved our spirits.
Day 3: Honesty Boxes, Lochside Miles & Boggy Boots
This stretch of the trail along Loch Lomond is famous for being rugged and slow—and it lived up to its reputation. We scrambled over roots, climbed rocky edges, and dealt with lots of wet, boggy trail. We were both a little grumpy and overstimulated by the end, but an honesty box filled with apples and KitKats lifted our moods and reminded us of the quiet magic of the trail.
Day 4: Rainy Miles, Trail Detours & a Tyndrum Sendoff
This was Ashima’s last day on trail—and the trail didn’t go easy on us. It rained most of the day, our feet were soaked, and detours made it feel longer than expected. But we laughed through the struggle, shared stories, and ended the day with a celebratory dinner at Real Food Café in Tyndrum. Saying goodbye the next morning was hard.
Day 5: First Solo Miles, Cozy Pods & Sticky Toffee Pudding
My first day hiking alone. I took it slow—just seven miles to Bridge of Orchy. The weather was grey and wet again, but I checked into a cozy hiker pod and let myself rest. I worked from the pub, explored the area solo, and even took myself to dinner. This was the day I realized that hiking solo is its own kind of strength—and also, that sticky toffee pudding might be the best trail reward ever.
Day 6: Fast Miles, Trail Chat & Hotel Luxury
This day surprised me. I met a fellow solo hiker named Jane, and we ended up walking most of the day together. The miles went quickly on the smooth military road, and the weather added a moody beauty to the open landscape. I arrived at Kingshouse Hotel absolutely soaked—and very ready for the robe, fancy dinner, and unexpected gin setup in the room. Trail luxury at its finest.
Day 7: Devil’s Staircase, Glencoe Views & a Cozy Night In
This was one of the most beautiful days of the entire trail. The skies cleared, the sun came out, and the trail wound through sweeping Glencoe views. I climbed the Devil’s Staircase, leapfrogged with a few familiar hikers, and soaked in every bit of it. I stayed in a cute Airbnb pod that night, ordered Chinese takeaway, and had a full solo night to journal and reflect.
Day 8: Final Miles, Moody Views & a Fort William Finish
My final day. The longest stretch—15 miles—and a total rollercoaster of emotion. The trail was wet and rugged in parts, but the mist and fall colors were gorgeous. I felt proud, reflective, sore, and deeply grateful. Walking into Fort William and touching the finish marker felt surreal. I celebrated with a solo seafood dinner and already started dreaming about doing it all over again.
Packing List for the West Highland Way
Here is my packing list for the West Highland Way—since I stayed in hotels along the way, I did not need to bring a tent or sleep system.
Note: This list contains affiliate links.
Keep in mind this is not my full packing list but some of the most important things I brought on this thru-hike. For my gear list when I’m camping on a trail, you can check out my backpacking packing list here.
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What I Packed That I Wouldn’t Bring Again
There were also a few pieces of gear that I brought that I really didn’t use and wouldn’t bring again.
Umbrella - It was so windy on the West Highland Way, that I barely was able to use my umbrella. It’s much more useful to have a good waterproof jacket, rain pants, and a pack cover.
Folding seat pad - Thought I might want this during breaks along the trail, but I didn’t end up using it once.
Gaiters - I brought these to keep water and mud out of my boots, but I never even put them on.
What I’m Glad I Did & What I’d Do Differently
After a trip, I always like to reflect on what went well, and any changes I would make if I were to do it again. Here are my thoughts on the West Highland Way.
What I’m Glad I Did
Packed for real rain - I spend a lot of time adventuring in drier environments where there might just be a passing storm, so this was a much wetter environment than I’m used to. A proper rain jacket, rain pants, lots of socks, and emergency poncho were crucial here.
Going in October - This was truly a magical time to be on this trail! The fall colors were stunning and the moody mist really added to the ambience. It was also nice that the trail wasn’t crowded at all, but most of the restaurants and hotels were still open.
Choosing hotels/pods over camping this time of year - It was just fun to be in the towns and pubs, and it was really nice to have somewhere to dry out each night.
Took time to enjoy towns and local food - Part of the experience of the West Highland Way is spending time in the towns along the way, and I really enjoyed exploring Scotland this way.
Got to do this both with a friend AND solo - I enjoy outdoor adventures with friends and escaping on my own, and it was cool that I got to experience both on one trip.
Tracked the journey daily through my podcast + IG posts - I’m really glad I documented my time on the trail to look back on after it was over, and it was cool to share it with my community in real time.
Wore trail runners - I was happy with my choice of trail runners over hiking boots. They were comfy, could handle the terrain, and dried out faster than heavy boots.
What I’d Do Differently
Use my backpacking backpack instead of hiking day pack - Since I wasn’t carrying camping gear, I figured I’d just use my day pack for this hike, but I think my backpacking pack would have been a better choice since it has a more supportive and comfortable hip belt for the weight I carried.
Bring a thermos - I definitely wish I had brought my thermos to sip warm, cozy drinks along the trail.
Don’t forget cash - Oops, I only brought cards, but the storm knocked out power a couple days on our trip, so some places were cash only. It’s always a good idea to have a little bit of cash with you!
Trained a tiny bit more - While I mostly felt ready to tackle the trail, I did end up with tight calves by the end. I think I could have prevented the pain with a little more pre-trip training.
Better hydration - I also could have done a better job with hydration. Sometimes it’s a challenge in cooler weather, and I think bringing a thermos would have helped with this.
West Highland Way FAQs
Do I need to train for this trail? It helps! There are some tough sections with steep climbs and long mileage.
Is it safe to hike solo? Yes! I hiked half the trail solo and felt completely safe. Just be mindful of remote stretches and changing weather.
Can I do this hike in summer? Absolutely. Expect more crowds and midges, but better weather and longer days.
Do I need a guide or can I do it self-supported? It’s fully doable on your own. The trail is well-marked and passes through towns daily.
How do I get back after finishing? You can take a train from Fort William back to Glasgow or Edinburgh. Book early!
If you’ve been dreaming of hiking the West Highland Way—or a long-distance trail abroad—I hope this post helps you feel a little more prepared and a lot more inspired!
LOOKING FOR MORE RESOURCES?
Check out these guides to hiking and backpacking in inclement weather:
And take a look at this post for more international hiking inspiration!
Cheers,
Allison - She Dreams of Alpine
A Complete Guide to Hiking the West Highland Way in October | Whether you’re dreaming of hiking the West Highland Way one day or you’re actively planning your route, I put together a full behind-the-scenes guide to how I thru-hiked 100 miles across the Scottish Highlands in October—plus all the planning tips, logistics, and trail insights I wish I had when I was prepping. | shedreamsofalpine.com