Rock Climbing at Rock Canyon and the Hinterlands, Utah
I'm almost a week late in typing this up, but better late than never I guess. It's just been one of those weeks you know, where you are really REALLY lazy. I don't even really have a solid excuse for it. I've just been bumming to work, bumming back home, bumming on the couch, and then repeating the whole thing all over agin. Quite pathetic, and I'll look to be more productive next week.
Anyways, last weekend I went back up to Provo, Utah with Jim to do some rock climbing with the Utah Climbing Club. It's funny because the people there think we are crazy for driving 10 hours just for a weekend of climbing, but we were stoked to get on some rock and climb at a new crag. 10 hours is no big deal brah.
In the name of being cheap, our trips up and back often have some nap sessions on the side of the road. Thanks to Jake who opened up this road side hotel idea to us... even though it is completely obvious. Jim brought a bivy sack... which was fine for the night below, but not so fine the next night... and I will explain that later.
Jim also convinced me to buy a dream catcher at a gas station on the way up. I'm a sucker, so I bought this cute little baby one. and we hung it in his prius... for good dreams and all.
We made it into Provo around Friday afternoon, hit up the Mountain work shop to pick up some quick draws and such, and then headed to Rock Canyon to get our climb on. Someone suggested that we go check out Red Slab, but I guess we were lazy or something (I know wtf Allison, stop being so f-ing lazy) so we ended up just jumping on the first wall we ran into that had bolts. Here we are at the entrance of the canyon. Feeling cool with all our gear and being in Utah.
This was not the wall we climbed on, but it was across from the wall we climbed on and I thought it looked cool.
Here we are! The Black Rose Wall (which we found out later at a bar... or maybe I should say the bar since there were like only 2 in Provo). We did two routes here before the sun set.
Then I made Jim take a lot of photos before we climbed on the wall because we never really take photos when we climb... or they are all of peoples butts.
Totes staged... but i look very pensive? Maybe even worried about what this climb had in store for me? Sorry that I am weird.
The first climb we did is called Pink Canoe and it is a 5.10a. Really slabbly, but fun. Crux was in the middle somewhere. Jim lead it beautifully, I toproped his efforts.
Hello from above.
Top of route Selfie. Naturally.
This is a side view of our next route. You can see one hold in particular on this picture that is especailly chalked up... this is the crux move. I did not get past it. Later at the bar, we found out that this route was called Black Magic Woman and was rated 5.11b, aka out of my leauge and eplains why I wasn't able to send it. Jim... however... DID SEND IT... he struggled on the crux a bit, but ended up killing it. I'm not sure how he did it, because I swear I tried it, but it was a really big move to the edge that allowed him to get past the crux.
After getting some climbing in, the sun started to go down, an we felt it was time to go grab a beer before setting up camp. So we headed over to the only bar we could find, drank a couple of Utah brews, talked to some intesting Provo locals, then headed back to Rock Canyon to set up camp again. I slept pretty good in my one person tent that night, but I woke up to find Jim miserable in his tiny little bivy sack. His bivy did not stand up to the rain we got during the night. So he was tired and happy it was morning.
After recovering with some McDonalds breakfast, we headed to meet the climbing club at Mountain Works. We spent an hour or so at the climbing gym there before heading out to a new crag called The Hinterlands. I'm not sure what all I am allowed to say about this crag, because it is currently being developed still, but I'll just say the name and no directions as to how we got there. I will however note that getting to the crag had quite the uphill climb, good for training for our upcoming Whitney trip I suppose.
This is a view of the crag from a distance, I think I overheard someone said there were about 50 climbs there now. It is all sharp limestone climbing, much different than the quartize we were climbing on Friday.
Provo is beautiful and I wish I lived here.
I didn't really get a whole lot of pictures of me or Jim climbing, because I was usually belaying Jim (trying not to kill him), and he was belaying me (trying not to kill me)... so mostly I have pics of club members, which is still cool, but I don't know all their names yet.
I don't know the name of any of these climbs, and it's not online so I'm not sure where I would find out, but I think this was an easy 5.6 climb. Jim and I both lead this one.
Below was another easier climb, maybe 5.6 or 5.7, We both lead this one as well.
Climbing member cleaning his anchor.
Just being creepy as usual and taking pictures of people while Jim belayed me down.
Here I am now I think at the top of a maybe 5.8 or 5.9 climb that was pretty long, but really fun. Jim lead this and I just toproped it.
We did one other climb that day that was like a 5.10b probably and really long (my 60m rope just barely worked for it). I didn't grab any pictures of it. We spent a lot of time on the route actually. Jim lead it, and the crux was really challenging. The crux was about 3/4ths the way up, it involved hanging left a bit, then jumping up to an undercling, and then traversing right before continuing on. There were also a ton of these little bugs on the wall that were chilling on part of the route and totally in our way. Jim really fought the rock on this climb, it was pretty tough and we aren't used to climbing limestone, it really beats you up. It's all rough and sharp. I had trouble at the crux a lot too, but in the end I thought the route was totally fun, and would love to try it again sometime. I'd like to redpoint it.
This is just a pic of one of the climbing club members as we left the crag.
Anyways, on our way back down from the crag, Jim and I got lost for a while. We couldnt find where we had parked and so we walked around this neighborhood all dirty and bum like with our climbing gear... back and forth.. even the dogs thought we looked suspicious with all the dirt and looks of despair we carried. We were worn out and I was mad for a while... then we ran back into some of the members who took us back to our car, and I was happy again. Thanks Provonians. I just made that word up, but I dig it now.
Despite having to drive all the way out to Utah, it was totally worth getting to climb on this limestone out here. It was epic and fun, and it had been far too long since I've gone climbing on some real rock. I even got a couple of lead climbs in. Watch your back Provonians... we will be back. 10 hours doesn't phase us. Can't stop won't stop. Ok.. I'm done.